Showing posts with label composting. Show all posts

5 Ways Home Gardeners Can Make More Robust Soil

As a child, Kristin Ohlson had easy access to gardens. Her grandparents maintained a small orchard and grew produce on their farm; her parents also planted huge plots of vegetables and flowers each year. While Ohlson didn’t develop a deeper agricultural interest until she grew up (all those hours harvesting vegetables cut into childhood playtime, after all), she eventually started researching how food is grown. And that research turned into a minor obsession.

In her 2014 book, The Soil Will Save Us, Ohlson documents how soil scientists are experimenting with cover crops, composting, no-till techniques, and other methods that help farmers reduce their reliance on fertilizer and rethink their relationships with soil. “Dirt First,” her more recent feature for Orion Magazine, and a Q&A with the Food & Environment Reporting Network (FERN) dive even deeper into the subject, exploring the role that microorganisms play in soil health, for both farm fields and backyard gardens.

“Plants pull carbon dioxide from the atmosphere through photosynthesis and create a carbon syrup,” she writes. “About 60 percent of this fuels the plant’s growth, with the remaining exuded through the roots to soil microorganisms, which trade mineral nutrients they’ve liberated from rocks, sand, silt, and clay—in other words, fertilizer—for their share of the carbon bounty.”

But before you chalk this all up as far too heady for the home gardener, check out her five easy steps for nurturing vegetables and flowers with natural methods based on that big-picture research—but applied to our own backyards.

1. DISTURB THE SOIL AS LITTLE AS POSSIBLE

Soil health starts with one basic principle: Don’t disturb the dirt. Sure, soil supports roots and helps hold up plants, but it also serves as a habitat for beneficial microorganisms.

“Underneath our feet is this incredible world teeming with billions of microorganisms that have been working in the soil for millions of years,” Ohlson says. “That ecosystem in the soil is what plants depend on for their nutrition, their water, and their defenses against chemicals, diseases, and insects.”

Rather than tilling garden rows and digging deep holes for new plants, she suggests leaving the soil structure as intact as possible. Poke small holes for seeds and dig slightly bigger spaces before planting seedlings.

2. MAKE PEACE WITH WEEDS

It may sound counter-intuitive—maybe even chaotic, in terms of landscaping—but weeds don’t need to be treated as an enemy. Even uninvited plants can help protect soil and feed the microorganisms at work below the surface.

“I used to dig up weeds or pull them out by the roots, but now I don’t want to disturb the soil. I go around with scissors and snip weeds off at the soil level instead,” says Ohlson. She then scatters clipped stems and leaves between the plants she wants to keep. This organic matter functions as mulch and acts as compost as it decomposes.

3. ENCOURAGE DIVERSITY

“In nature, there is this vast abundance of diversity—plants and insects and all kinds of life—in every square foot. This biodiversity helps feed and support the biodiversity in the soil,” she says. (Check out the incredible variety of plants in this enchanting Texas garden.)

Follow nature’s lead in your garden by growing a variety of vegetables, fruits, flowers, herbs, and other plants in close proximity. The variety promotes healthy, robust soil and might also attract a new mix of pollinators.

4. PLANT COVER CROPS


Every gardener has heard this one before, and Ohlson is a firm believer as well. She aims to keep her garden soil engaged, either by covering it in dead plant material or by nurturing live roots in the ground. Cover crops play a dual role. They interact with microorganisms by extending their roots as they grow, and they provide extra organic material to protect the soil once they’re harvested. In small gardens, simply clip cover crops with scissors and scatter over bare ground.

Not sure what kind of cover crop to plant? First, consider what might thrive in your location and climate. “Then, see what plants and flowers are native to your region,” Ohlson suggests. “But really, I think people can use almost anything, as long as it grows.” (These 5 cover crops will keep a small plot healthy.)

5. TRADE FERTILIZER FOR COMPOST

When plants rely on fertilizer, they get lazy. Their partnership with microorganisms in the soil changes, and that can impact the wider microbe community. By using compost instead, you’re enhancing the soil with a concentration of microorganisms and carbon that help plants thrive.

If making your own seems too messy or daunting, look into local sources. Some cities collect food waste and make the resulting compost available to the public. Elsewhere, garden and hardware stores sell organic compost by the bag. You might find regional farmers who can supply the materials you need, as well.

“I also put sticks, some food waste, and dead plant matter around my living plants. That keeps the benefits of compost happening on the most basic level,” Ohlson says.

FOR SMALL-SPACE GARDENERS

Ohlson’s overall advice is similar for gardeners who grow plants in pots or containers, where soil mindfulness is especially important.

“When water hits bare soil, it compacts that soil. Even the force of one raindrop can make an impact. So, the less that bare soil is exposed to water, the healthier that soil is,” she says. “Even in a small pot, I don’t want to be pouring water directly on the soil. I’d rather have it seeping through clipped plant material and reaching the soil in a gentler way.”

Ohlson has two raised beds in her own backyard and she packs them with a diverse selection of vegetables, flowers, and shrubs. “I plant things really close together and try to have a lot of live roots in the ground. It’s so rewarding to see the incredible production I get out of these two tiny raised beds,” she says.

Squash family on our menu

3 different species of bee work a
Seminole pumpkin flower.

The Squash family

There are quite a few important crops in this family (Curcubitaceae), from cucumbers and melons to zucchinis and pumpkins, all members of this family have separate male and female flowers which need to be pollinated--most female flowers need to be visited by pollinators (mostly bees and wasps) 7 to 10 times before a fruit forms. The female flower sits atop a small preformed fruit, while the male flower is borne on a long stalk. If a fruit does not grow after the flower fades and it turns yellow, this usually means that it was not fertilized.

Most squash vines put out several to many male flowers first before the first female flower is formed. My guess is that this strategy attracts pollinators to the area before it spends the extra energy to form a female flower.

Up until 2 weeks ago, it's been a dry spring, so I've irrigated the squashes every other day at the minimum to keep them from stressing due to wilting. This has been hand irrigation with rain barrel water, in addition to the once a week landscape-wide irrigation. The reason for this is that squashes need a consistent and generous amount of water to produce the fastest growth of the fruit.

For more detailed information on growing the squash family crops see our book "Organic Methods for Vegetable Gardening in Florida."


Cucumbers

This year I tried a different variety, Speedy Hybrid, which was on sale from Burpee, but it's done so much better than any others I've grown, that I'll probably stick with this one. The leaves are larger and the crop much more plentiful. Plus they have a nice mild taste. It's a good thing we like them, because we have a lot!

A bountiful cucumber harvest.Female cucumber flowers

Spaghetti squash

Several spaghetti squash vines volunteered as a result of my trench composting seeds and skins from a store-bought squash last winter. Of course we were happy to see this, so I made room for them to sprawl and created a bit of a swale around them so I could irrigate more efficiently.

Trouble in paradise! When growing squash, it's important to keep an eye on them, because sometimes worms will attack, but some varieties are more susceptible than others. So I saw that 2 of these squashes had been invaded--you can tell by the holes and the frass on the outside of the squash. No time to waste, they had to be harvested and cooked right away, otherwise the worms would have continued to eat. We split them, dug out the seeds and made sure that the worms were dead before they went into the compost bucket. Then we cooked them: see below...

Uh-oh! The spaghetti squashes had been attacked.The worms were easy to remove, because they were working in the seed area.

Scooping out the squash after cooking.This squash soup was delicious!!

Squash Soup Recipe

Ingredients:
2 spaghetti squashes
1 cucumber (Since it was fresh from the garden, it was unpeeled, but store-bought cukes need to be peeled to remove all that waxy stuff they use to keep them from wilting.)
2/3 cup plain non-fat yogurt
1 cup of chopped onions
1/2 cup chopped celery
1/4 cup chopped parsley
1/4 cup chopped garlic chives
1/4 cup olive oil
2 tablespoons chopped garlic
1 cup of white wine
Several cherry tomatoes
(Note: the squash, cucumbers, onions, parsley, garlic chives, garlic, and tomatoes are all from our garden harvest.)
-Split squashes, remove seeds (and worms) lay face down in 1/2" water in microwavable pan and cook at full power for 10 minutes or until soft.
-Scoop squash flesh from skins (We stored it in the fridge in a covered bowl for 2 days until we were ready to proceed.)
-Purée squash, yogurt, and uncooked cucumber in food processor. We did this in several steps and each time emptying the contents into our large bowl that has a locking lid. (The first batch with just the squash and yogurt was so sweet it tasted like ice cream!)
-Sauté onions, garlic, and celery in the olive oil over medium to low heat until onions start to caramelize. Reduce the heat and add the parsley and garlic chives and finally add the wine. Cool until room temperature.
-Purée the sautéed mixture as well and stir it into the mixture.
-Serve into bowls and top with a dollop of yogurt and cherry tomatoes cut into halves or quarters. Plus freshly ground pepper.

Butternuts and more...

The new bed in the foreground is covered with butternut squash volunteers. On the other side of the path are 3 Seminole pumpkin vines which have only put out male flowers at this point, the green & white crook-necked squash vines, and then several cucumber vines are growing up on 3 tomato cages, 
Quite a few butternut squashes also volunteered in our new bed next to the elevated rain barrels. Read about building this new bed in this post, but instead of building wide rows for winter vegetables, I buried kitchen scraps methodically one hole after another until the whole bed had been enriched. Obviously one or more of those deposits contained butternut squash seeds, because look at what we harvested, with many more on the way.

After the first soup, another squash family harvest, with more to come. 
Note the 2 crook-necked squashes in the upper left corner of this display. At first I thought that they were from Delicata, squash vines which has green stripes on an off-white background and no crook neck. Obviously, these don't look like that, so I looked up what else they might be and they look sorta like a Crushaw, but they don't have bumpy, thick skin. It turns out that they were from the Seminole pumpkin vines, which have a variety of shapes. They are a very edible, mild squash.

We used these two crook necks and the one spaghetti squash for our next rendition of our squash soup, using the recipe above except that we used 3 cucumbers. More cucumbery, of course, but still very nice.

Our next squash adventure was the largest butternut, cooked in the water like the others, but then fixed like our cheesy mashed potatoes using sautéd onions and garlic. With shredded cheddar cheese and plain, non-fat yogurt added. Also, quite delish. Many more squashy eating adventures are in our future.

It's times like these where it's clear why our food bills are so much less than they used to be.

Other pollinators in our non-poisoned yard
Giant swallowtails are frequent visitors to our yard even though we don't have any citrus, which is the larval food source, but many of our neighbors do. For more information, see: http://entnemdept.ufl.edu/creatures/citrus/giantswallowtail.htm 

Tiger swallowtail nectaring on an eastern arrowwood (Viburnum dentatum) These butterflies use sweetbay magnolias as their larval food--we have plenty of those. For more info: http://entnemdept.ufl.edu/creatures/bfly/tiger_swallowtail.htm
I hope you are enjoying the fruits of your labor this late spring.

Green Gardening Matters,
Ginny Stibolt

A failed onion crop

My onions failed to form bulbs. Were they a long-day variety?
I've had some wonderful onion harvests in the past, but not this year. See my post A sweet onion harvest to see what a successful onion crop looks like. Note: that crop was harvested in May.

So what happened? 


Well, I was distracted this fall with my #floweredshirttour for my third book, The Art of Maintaining a Florida Native Landscape—35 events in 11 weeks from September 1 to November 15th. Instead of taking the time to order my short-day onion plants, I just bought a package of onion sets, which I'd used before, with reasonable success. See my post, The skinny on onions, back when I was just figuring out what to do in Florida. The information I found at the time said that only short-day onions, which is what we need in Florida because we grow onions through the winter, were available as sets.

But when I looked at these onions at the end of June, none of them had formed a bulb or had begun to go into dormancy. I admit that I did not spend very much time babying them in the fall and then in early March, my husband and I were out of town for almost 2 months, so it's possible that they only needed more irrigation and better weeding. But wouldn't that situation just resulted in smaller onions?
Is the information I found about sets just another old gardener's tale? I think so. I believe that these onions are long-day onions because none of them formed a bulb. See my post: Recipe for failure: Long-day onions in Florida.

On the other hand, my garlic, which was a soft-neck variety, which we need in Florida, also failed, so maybe it was the lack of care. At any rate, I pulled up all the garlic and all the onions the other day. 

The whole, pitiful harvest after cleaning. 

 When faced with a failed crop, make soup!


A delicious cold soup for a hot day...

I made a version of my rogue onion soup, but with no celery because I had soooo many onions to use up. It's sad when a whole harvest can be used up in one batch of soup, but this supplied us with 7 large servings (3 dinners and a lunch for one). But, as usual it was really good and so good for us.

I'm loving my rangy marigolds this year—there is so much more biomass.

Marigolds condition the soil


Some of my tall marigolds had leaned into the path through our edible garden, so I trimmed it back and used those trimmings as a green layer in my working compost pile. The leaves of marigold contain a chemical that repels root knot nematodes, so including them in the compost will help condition my whole garden. Read my post Results: the nematode experiment.


Life on a stick...

Life on a stick


The other day I noticed this dead twig, which was totally covered with various lichens and a small ball moss.

Mother Nature is so efficient in finding places to inhabit. 


I've been reposting my articles from the team blog Native Plants & Wildlife Gardens that has gone dark. Our new space is for archiving only (no comments), but at least they are available. Here's my post there, From lawn to woods, a retrospective. From there, you can go the the blog home to see all the articles that have been posted so far.

I hope you are enjoying your summer.


Green Gardening Matters!
Ginny Stibolt

May crops and more...

It's zucchini season. I planted various types of squash
 at the beginning of March. The zucchinis
 win the race with fruit on the table by the end of April.

It's zucchini season!

I planted Green Tiger Zucchini Hybrid seeds by Burpee at the beginning of March along with 3 other types of squash—butternut, summer, and one called Delicata, which is white with green stripes on the outside, but orange on the inside. The others are just beginning to form fruit, while the zucchini harvest began at the end of April.

I used less than 1/4 of one in a stir fry, but since more are on the way, I decided to grate the rest of these 2 zucchinis for bread and for freezing. This produced 8 cups of zucchini strings—4 for bread and 4 for freezing in two 2-cup packages.

I combined 2 different recipes for the zucchini bread and it was delicious, so here's the combined recipe...
I froze 4 cups of grated zucchini in 2 packages for later use. Yummy zucchini bread, hot from the oven...

Zucchini bread recipe


Ingredients: (for one 9" x 5" loaf)
Dry ingredients:

2 cups all purpose flour
(or 1 cup all purpose & 1 cup whole wheat)
1/3 cup old fashioned oatmeal
2 tsp baking powder
1/2 tsp baking soda
1/4 tsp nutmeg
1/2 tsp cinnamon
1/2 cup raisins or currents (optional)
1/2 cup chopped nuts (optional)
(or sunflower seeds)
Powered sugar for dusting

Wet ingredients:
2 eggs
1/2 cup olive oil
2 cups grated zucchini
Grate the zucchini first and let it sit in a
colander in the sink to drain for 15 minutes
or so. Squeeze out the excess moisture before using.

Mix the dry ingredients (except for the sugar) in a large bowl.

Beat the eggs with the olive oil with fork in
a small bowl. When the zucchini is ready, add the egg mixture to the dry ingredients and then stir in the zucchini. Don't over-mix.

Scoop the mixture into a greased pan and
spread it out evenly in the pan.

Bake at 350 degrees for 45 minutes or until
the top of the bread is firm. Dust with
powdered sugar to taste.
Best served warm with butter.

Elsewhere in the edible gardens

A black swallowtail cat has slim pickings on the almost dead dill, while the parsley below is lush.Blueberries!
Black swallowtail butterflies seek out members of the carrot family for their larvae, but these days they seem to prefer our crops, such as dill or parsley, to the native species. Once the egg has been laid, though, the cats will not move from dill to parsley no matter how much more food is available. I did push over a slightly less dead dill plant next to the one with the most caterpillars. Maybe they found it, but all the cats were gone the next day. When food is short, the adult butterflies will be smaller.

We have a great crop of blueberries this year and for some reason the birds are not eating them. All the more for us! Read my article on our Florida blueberries. I planted them back in 2009 and they've been a good gardening investment requiring very little maintenance over the years.

A tabbouleh harvest: parsley, a small zucchini, cutting celery, garlic chives, and some tender cabbage leaves.I'd planted a different type of marigold back at the beginning of March, but I didn't know it would be so tall. Half of them are chopped off for use in preparing my okra swales.
Speaking of parsley, here's a harvest for a tabbouleh, which my husband made for us. So good and good for us, as well. Here's a link to his tabbouleh recipe.

The marigolds I planted back at the beginning of March were a tall variety, which turned out to be a good thing—I cut off the tops to help reduce root knot nematodes in the bed where I'll plant my okra. See my post Results: the nematode experiment for the details of the how and why.
Getting ready for okra includes burying marigolds to eliminate the root knot nematodes. Swales are ready to go. After patting them in place, I wet them down and mulched with pine needles.
I prepared the okra bed by digging down about 8" on 1/2 of the bed, laying in kitchen scraps, bunches of marigold tops, a 3"-layer of freshly dug compost filled with worms, and then covering it with the soil that I'd dug out. I repeated the process for the other half of the bed.

This bed is about 4.5' square and I'll plant 2 seeds at each connection point in the swales and trim them back so I'll end up with 9 okra plants. This will produce enough for us and to share with neighbors. Read my post Okra swales to find out why I plant them in this arrangement.
A downspout rain garden collects rain water
so it has a chance to soak in to the ground.

Special appearance on May 21


I will be giving a presentation on rain gardens at the Florida Native Plant Society's conference in Daytona Beach. Here is a link to the FNPS blog article on rain gardens. The last day to register online is May 11th, but you may register in person onsite after that.

I hope to see you at the conference.

Green Gardening Matters,
Ginny Stibolt

Ramping up for fall

Ginny event poster

Book tour

This fall can be best described as frenetic. I now have 29 public events and 5 private ones from Sept. 1 through Nov. 10th.  Can you believe that I'm working a arranging a couple more? I'll have 4 or 5 different presentations. Check out my Appearances Page to see the updated list.

This poster was created by the Cocoplum Florida Native Plant Society Chapter for the 3-hour native plant workshop that they organized and that I'll be leading on Oct. 10th in Stuart, FL.

Bountiful okra 

Amazing okra!
Amazing okra (Abelmoschus esculentus). This crop plant was probably native to Africa, but it's been under cultivation for millennia. There is evidence that it was grown in Egypt as long ago as 2,000 BC. 

I use the swale method for growing this vigorous plant. I dug four holes, equi-spaced in a 5' square and buried kitchen scraps in the bottom of each hole. I planted 3 seeds in each of the 9 corners around the rims of the swales, because the seeds are 4 years old. When the seeds sprouted, I arranged them so that only one was growing in each of the 9 spots. And 3 months later we have more okra than we can use. Our neighbors look forward to our bounty. See my post Okra swales for more details. 



Pine hyacinth

Pine hyacinth (Clematis baldwinni)
Clematis baldwinii
The pine hyacinth (Clemetis baldwinii) is a new plant for me. I spotted this vine on our weekly walks along the St. Johns River in Jacksonville. I did not recognize it as a clematis because of its drooping flower, but there is no mistaking it once you know what to look for.

Native Florida Poinsettia

Our Florida native Poinsettia turns color much earlier than its more famous cousin.
Painted leaf (Poinsettia cyathophora) is a member of the Euphorbia family. The petal-less flowers are grouped into a head with separate male and female flowers and the bracts under the flower head turn red to attract pollinators. This was also spotted on our St. Johns River walk.

A lounging black racer

A sleek black racer sunning itself on a sago.
When we saw this black racer out on one of the sagos (Cycas revoluta) by the front porch, We hoped that it was hunting the Cuban anoles (lizards) and leaving the native green anoles to thrive. 

Florida native seeds

Trying some real Florida wildflower seeds this fall.
I ordered some seed from the Florida Wildflowers Growers Cooperative to add some good diversity to our meadow areas and to also try to grow some in containers. I'll let you know how it goes.

Those darn water spangles!!

Uh oh, those darn water spangles are back.
Water spangles (Salvinia minima) is an invasive floating fern from Asia. We were NOT happy to see it back in our front pond. This will be yet another fall project: I'll don my dive booties and step into the pond to fish as much of this stuff out as possible and before it multiplies to cover the whole pond again. I wrote about our battle with this invasive in Managing a natural pond.

I hope you have a good list of fall projects to tackle as well.

Green Gardening Matters,
Ginny Stibolt

Kohlrabi: a versatile cole crop

The weird stem enlargement is about the size of an apple...
Kohlrabi (Brassica oleracea var. gongylodes) is one of the many cole crops (cabbage, kale, collard greens, Brussels sprouts, broccoli, cauliflower, and more), which have all been bred from just one plant species. Kohl is the German word for cabbage—hence they are the "cole crops" and why cabbage salad is called cole slaw. The word kohlrabi means cabbage apple in German, which makes a lot of sense because of the size of its stem enlargement and its sweet taste and crispy texture.

Because kohlrabi is easy-to-grow and has few pests in an organic garden, helps to explain its recently gained popularity with farmers markets and local food groups. It has been grown as a crop in Europe for centuries. Grown for its weird Sputnik-shaped enlarged stem-bulb with leaves sticking out at odd angles. You can consume both the enlarged stem and its leaves.


Be sure to leave enough room when you plant the kohlrabi
so they can expand to their full size. 

Planting kohlrabi


Plant seeds directly in the garden or start in flats in the fall and periodically throughout the winter until mid-February in Florida. Plant seeds or plants at 6 to 8 inches apart so they have enough room to develop. If too many seeds come up together, transplant them early so they get a good start. Amend soil well with compost and composted manure for the best growth.

Planting locations should be in full sun or slight shade with more shade for the later plantings. Mulch around stems with pine needles to keep weeds at bay and to hold in moisture. Irrigate regularly, but deeply. 

Cut the stem-bulb when it's two to three inches in diameter. Larger bulbs become tough and woody and definitely harvest before hot weather arrives. There may be some regrowth after harvesting, but usually only the leaves.
Sliced about 1/8 to 1/4-inch thin, pan-fried in olive oil, and
garnished with grated Parmesan cheese.


Preparation

There are many ways to prepare kohlrabi:
1) cook it like a turnip and all its ways (roasted, mashed, or in a soup), especially if it's 5 inches in diameter or larger.
2) grate the enlarged stem and use them in salads or instead of zucchini in breads. 

3) cut the stem into sticks and use them as dipping vegetables.
4) use the leaves as you'd use any of the leafy cole crops including veggie chips, added raw to salads or cole slaw, chopped in soups, or mixed in with a mess of cooked greens.


All the cole crops are the same species: Brassica oleracea.


Aren't cole crops amazing?
Consider planting this interesting cole vegetable in your cool-weather edible garden next year.

Green Gardening Matters,
Ginny Stibolt

Lime basil

Lime basil took over my early lettuce rows. I'd grown it here last year and now I know that it's an abundant reseeder. I'd let it grow since early September when I set up these 2 rows, but now it was time to give the lettuce and the beets more room.
Abundant harvest of lime basil! I shared some with 2
new neighbors and then made a pesto with the rest of it.
The standard sweet Italian basil doesn't do well here with our hot, humid summers. It is prone to various wilt and fungal diseases, which forces growers to harvest it early. So on a whim I bought some lime basil seed from Burpee Seeds a couple of years ago. It not only makes it through the summers, it also reseeds, so it's unlikely that I'll need to purchase more seed any time soon.

The taste really does have a distinct lime overtone. I use it in the same as I do for regular basil, but since its flavor is strong, there are some dishes that I have learned to use less of it.


So this happened...

I planted an early crop of lettuce, beets, and a few white radishes at the beginning of September. It was a little too early for the lettuces and only a few seeds germinated, but the lime basil, which had been planted in this bed the year before loved the new planting rows and volunteered there.

When it became obvious that the lettuce crop would be lacking, I planted some more seed, but I left the basil in place. Well, the basil took over the whole area, as you can see in the top photo, so it was time to give the lettuce some light and room. I did not want to disturb the roots, so I cut off the stalks just above ground level and this made for an abundant harvest. I gave half of it away to two new neighbors and made pesto with the other half. In this pesto, I used equal amounts of garlic chives and basil—in addition to the onion and other ingredients. (You can see how I make pesto in my post: A field trip, A Florida native plant hero, & a pasta salad.) This time I used about a third of the pesto for a Mediterranean pasta salad and I froze the rest.

Now, the lettuce and other crops have more room to grow. Some lettuce, like the black-seeded Simpson have been mostly harvested.A week after cutting off the lime basil, it is already sprouting, but frost will kill it in December. 
These containers of pesto will allow us to enjoy this harvest when there is no fresh basil available from the garden.

I love the loose leaf salad blend. So pretty and so tasty. I had already harvested some of the red butter leaf  lettuce leaves from the outside of the plant, but you can hardly tell. Some oakleaf lettuce is making a good start for a later. harvest

One parsley plant left from last year's crop. Normally, this is a biennial and takes 2 years to complete its life cycle, but here in north Florida, our season is so long that parsley sets flowers in the same season as it is planted. But this one plant that was grown in a container did not, so now I have a little fresh parsley to use early in the season. My new crop has sprouted, but it will be a couple of months before it's established enough for picking.
We don't have any citrus plants in our yard, but many of our neighbors have too much. Ample Harvest is a matching service for people who have too much of a good thing with organizations that can use the surplus. How sustainable!

Time to turn the compost pile

With all the fall leaf supply, it was time to turn the compost pile. Looking from pile B toward pile A.The okra stalks have not rotted in the compost pile A yet, but they will.
With the abundance of fallen leaves, it was time to turn the pile. Besides, the old pile was almost cleaned out and I needed the compost from the bottom of pile A (near the shed). I scraped the rest of the compost from pile B (near the cement pad) and put it in the old wheel barrow. I laid in about 6" of raked leaves for the floor, and added alternating layers of 1) unfinished compost from pile A, 2) raked leaves, and 3) thin dusting of finished compost from the wheelbarrow. After the finished compost layer I poured a watering can of rain barrel water.

Since the turning, I've added a layer of kitchen scraps and more leaves. I will continue to add layers of alternating green and brown materials until the end of the year and then let it rest until spring when the whole process will begin again.

As expected at the bottom of the pile A, there was a good supply of moist, rich, finished compost. I'm using this compost to enrich the winter veggies beds (which you can see in the above photos), store some of it in a bin (next to the potting bench) for winter use, and use the rest of it to topdress my recently planted woody plants and others that I want to push a little more. While I never put amendments in the planting holes, a layer of compost laid outside the root ball area several times during the first couple of years after planting will entice the trees' roots to grow outward. Wide-spreading roots make plants more wind-tolerant and more drought tolerant and this is important in Florida where we have and 7-month dry season each year and tropical storms on a regular basis.


Native flowers

Oh my! It's hard to beat the dune sunflowers for beauty and durability. This one is part of our mailbox planting. This one plant has spread across the whole bed and has lasted for 3 years. I trim it back to keep it within its boundaries and use those cuttings to make new plants.

Our state wildflower!

I renewed my membership in the Florida Wildflower Foundation and they sent me seeds with my new card. I've sowed these seeds in a meadow area and look forward to seeing more of these cheerful tickseed flowers in the spring.

I trust that you are enjoying your fall gardening.

Green Gardening Matters,
Ginny Stibolt

A beautiful sunrise as reflected in the St. Johns River.